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The Spa at Four Seasons Resort
Chiang Mai, Thailand
Julie Register visited this resort spa in northern Thailand in
June 2001
 I
anticipated the flight from Bangkok to Chiang Mai would be on a little
commuter plane, but it turned out to be a fully-booked 747-ish jet.
Even though the flight took just over an hour, Thai Airways had time to
serve breakfast. It was a pleasant start to our journey to Four Seasons
Resort Chiang Mai. I arranged for resort to pick us up at the airport.
Our driver was waiting for us at the terminal, loaded our luggage in the
van, and offered us much-appreciated cool washcloths and bottled water.
During the half-hour ride from the city to the hilly countryside, we noted
how the pace of life in Chiang Mai seemed slower than in Bangkok. We saw
tuk-tuks, rickshaws, and trucks with wooden benches in the truck bed that
served as buses. Our driver told us that there are no taxis in Chiang
Mai and we didn't see any. I was glad I had arranged for the van. Getting
our luggage to the resort would have been a challenge without it.
 The
sight and scent of fresh flowers greeted us as we entered the open-air
lobby of the resort. We were given necklaces of fresh jasmine and invited
to sit and enjoy a refreshing fruit drink and more cool washcloths while
we checked in. A short while later, we were in our Pavilion Suites - my
son and daughter in the lower suite and my husband and I in the upper
suite. Each suite had a lovely sleeping
area, a separate dressing area, a luxurious deep soaking
tub overlooking a private garden, and an outdoor sala
(covered gazebo) that overlooked the beautiful property and the mountains
beyond. It was a perfect place to stretch out and relax. The overhead
fan made it quite pleasant even in the heat of the day. We enjoyed having
breakfast there one morning.
 The
77-suite resort was designed like a traditional Thai village centered
around a working rice
paddy (the rice is donated to charity). There are 64 750 square-foot
Pavilion Suites and 13 Residence Suites ranging from 350 to 3,767 square
feet available in combinations of one, two and three bedrooms with a private
pool on the lower level. The work of the ever-present team of gardeners
on the landscape designed by Bensley Design Studios, Bangkok is evident
- the grounds are immaculate and lush with over 200 varieties of plants
and trees. Paths that wind through the property are lined with spirit
house-styled lights. At night glowing lanterns seem to magically float
overhead.
 The
main pool and fitness center are centrally located. In the fitness center
building, there are separate womens' and mens' locker rooms with saunas
as well as a co-ed
herbal steam room and outdoor whirlpool.
These facilities are separate from the spa - a perfect arrangement in
my opinion. The fitness center offers classes in low impact aerobics,
body toning, stretching, yoga, and meditation. There are two tennis courts
on site, complementary mountain bikes, and golf nearby.
 Lanna
literally means "the land of a million rice fields" and the
Lanna style of architecture and design is unique to that area of Thailand.
The Spa opened in December 1999 in a magnificent 9,000 square foot three-story
building at the far end of the Residence Suites area of the resort. The
resort calls The Spa "a temple of harmony for the body, mind
and soul." They are not exaggerating. Other appropriate adjectives
include romantic, indulgent, exclusive, and private. Mr. Lek Bunnag of
Bunnag Architects of Bangkok, who did the architectural design and interiors,
based The Spa's design on several ancient Thai Lanna Temples in the north.
The design concept in creating The Spa was to provide a luxurious
facility with total privacy for clients while at the same time incorporating
both nature and culture and carefully blending the spa into the resort's
existing environment. To say they met their goal is an understatement.
 Crossing
the bridge to get to the spa entrance is like crossing from one fantasy
world to another. This sumptuous sanctuary has seven spacious treatment
suites that offer total privacy for individuals or couples. In order to
give each suite an individual identity, Lek chose a clearly defined room-type
of architecture in which he then created "diminishing
perspective", giving visual depth inside each treatment suite
with a design inspired from the gates of Wat Phumin (the most beautiful
and distinctive Lanna temple in the Nan province, 300 kms from Chiang
Mai). Six of the suites feature soaking tubs on semi-enclosed salas. Five
of the suites have private herbal aromatherapy steam rooms. Two of the
suites feature double
rain shower massage tables. The palatial Lann Chang Suite in the penthouse
has a sunken bath
in a turret with
stunning views of the resort and Doi Suthep and Doi Pui mountain ranges.
The Prae Garden Suite
on the lower level has Thai style massage beds next to a fireplace and
its own private pool.
The decor is rich, luxurious, and sumptuous. Treatments
are inspired by ancient Thai rituals using herbs, spices and aromatic
oils sourced from traditional rural origins. It is an extraordinary spa
and my favorite to date.
 My
entire family decided to have spa treatments. My son and husband worked
out at the fitness center then each chose an Aromatic Massage using Nutmeg
Oil. This oil from southern Thailand is used for muscular ailments and
muscle stimulation, has a warm, spicy fragrance, and relieves fatigue.
My daughter chose an Aromatic Massage with Lemongrass Oil. It has a fresh
grassy citrus fragrance and is refreshing and stimulating.
I had the three-hour Lanna Sampler which
includes Thai Herbal Steam, Traditional Thai Massage, Lanna Herbal Facial,
and Ginger and Honey Elixir. I entered the suite and was captivated by
the decor. I was led to a changing room where I changed into a robe. I
then entered the steam room for the Thai Herbal Steam. My initial thoughts
were along these lines..."are you insane?...this steamy climate is
the last place you need a steam bath!" But I soon relaxed and enjoyed
the rich, exotic fragrance and the steam. I stepped out for a break at
10 minute intervals but got right back in.  I
then changed into at loose-fitting outfit called a "choot nourd"
to wear during the Traditional
Thai Massage (nuat paen boran) that followed. I liked the choot nourd
so much, I later bought one to take home. Thai massage is my favorite
spa treatment. I always feel positively energized after having one. This
time was no exception. My husband and I shared the same suite. Our massages
ended at the same time and we relaxed and recovered on a large sofa that
overlooked a private garden while we sipped ginger and honey elixir. He
left and I returned to the table for at Lanna Herbal Facial that left
my skin feeling fresh and soft. The whole experience was exceptional.
The rest of my family enjoyed their treatments as well. It was my son's
first massage. What a place to be introduced to the world of spas!
 Chiang
Mai is a center for shopping and we could not resist.
The resort's concierge, Mr. Pratya, was extremely helpful in helping us
fit as much as we could into our tight schedule. One night we took the
complementary shuttle from the resort to the Night Market, a bazaar full
of sights, sounds, and treasures. One day we used the resort's chauffeur
service and shopped along Sankampaeng Road where many handicraft factories
are located. The demonstrations alone are worth the trip. We saw how silk,
umbrellas, and
Sa paper (course
decorative paper, some with flower petals imbedded in it) are made and
watched woodcarvers make teak and rosewood furniture. We did not get to
the silverware, celadon, or lacquerware factories.
 Another
day we again hired the van to take us to the elephant
camp to see them bathe and demonstrate how
they worked (although logging is no longer allowed in Thailand). The trip
ended with a ride on an elephant through the jungle. We did not have time
to visit any of the 300+ wats in Chiang Mai - another of many, many reasons
to return.
Photos copyright 2001, Julie Register
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